Sri Lanka is renowned for having some of the most spectacular wildlife on the planet. From the big blue whale and the stunning Sri Lankan leopard to the stupendous saltwater crocodile and the awe-inspiring Asian water monitor, Sri Lanka has no shortage of incredible animals. However, while there are multiple national parks and sanctuaries where we can observe these amazing creatures, we can often overlook the equally special animals that reside in our own backyards. The waterways of Jaffna is one such habitat and it is home to an astounding array of animals. Perhaps the most well-known aspect of Jaffna’s biodiversity is its enormous variety of bird life, for the wetlands around Kallundai, Kayts, Chemmani, Mandaitivu and Sarasalai are teeming with hundreds of birds of every kind! The diversity of wading birds is particularly stunning to behold, with multiple species of herons and storks and egrets and plovers and sandpipers all coexisting within the same area. The sheer number of birds is also unfathomable. I’ve seen flocks of well over one hundred godwits flying and foraging together on multiple occasions; there were so many that they seemed to form a wall of wings whenever they took off! Several species of terns also form an equally impressive canvas of feathers, darting over the water’s surface together in hundreds upon hundreds of feathery specks.
The same is also true of ducks and I’ve been fortunate enough to have seen some absolutely gargantuan gatherings near Kayts. These gatherings consisted of several hundred ducks of numerous species, including the Eurasian wigeon, Northern pintail, garganey and lesser whistling duck. Some duck species, such as the Indian spot-billed duck and Northern shoveler, are also notable because their distribution in Sri Lanka is often restricted to the Northern regions of the island. Thus, seeing both these species in abundance was particularly special. Yet, perhaps Jaffna’s greatest gem comes in the form of the glossy ibis. For decades, the glorious glossy ibis was regarded as a scarce migrant in Sri Lanka that could only be observed in small flocks across the island. However, the Northern Province seems to be a true sanctuary for this species and the glossy ibis can be observed here in their hundreds; numbers not observed in Sri Lanka since the 1800s! I was privileged enough to observe countless glossy ibis gatherings across Jaffna, with some flocks consisting of well over a hundred individuals, and they remain among the most beautifully brilliant animals I’ve ever seen! I was even able to publish these observations in both the Sunday Times and Loris/Journal of the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society of Sri Lanka, and I hope this may bring about an increased appreciation for this glamorous jewel of Jaffna.
Jaffna is also home to several, brilliant birds found across the island. While many of these can still be seen across much of the country, their presence in Jaffna is still something I’m forever grateful for, as they are truly extraordinary animals. Perhaps the most majestic of all is the white-bellied sea eagle, which can be seen soaring spectacularly across Jaffna’s skies. The white-bellied sea eagle is the largest eagle, and biggest bird of prey, in all of Sri Lanka and it is a truly magnificent animal, with its tremendous 2 metre wingspan and striking patterns of black and white giving it a simultaneously elegant yet imposing appearance. The spot-billed pelican is another record breaker and can be seen sailing across Jaffna’s many water bodies. With a wingspan spreading up to a titanic 2.5 metres, the spot-billed pelican may be the largest flying bird across the island. I’ve seen dozens of these birds near Kallundai and was extremely fortunate in having seen a flock of over a hundred pelicans sailing across the waters near Kayts. The sight of so many pelicans is something I’ll never forget; it was like watching a fleet of galleons speeding across the surface! Another equally impressive bird is the greater flamingo; the largest flamingo in Sri Lanka and among the most popular birds on the island. I’d often heard of flamingo sightings in Jaffna but I never thought I’d be fortunate enough to actually see them in person. Yet, during one bird watching trip to Karainagar, we happened upon a flock of several dozen flamingos striding stately through the shallows! To see such fabulous birds so close to home was a truly unforgettable experience and their pink wings really seemed to shimmer and sparkle in the sunlight! Even larger flocks of flamingos, consisting of at least a few hundred individuals, were even observed in Jaffna as recently as June 2024 and this may have interesting implications for their migratory patterns! Another bird with a similarly staggering level of significance is of course the Indian peafowl or peacock and it too can be seen in Jaffna, with individuals having been observed near Sarasalai in June 2024; yet another example of the tremendous biodiversity present in this part of the island. While flamingos and peacocks may receive endless attention, there are many underrated birds that are equally breath-taking. One of the most underrated birds has to be the grey-headed swamphen. Although found across much of the country, the grey-headed swamphen is still an enchanting animal that shouldn’t be taken for granted; its royal, red beak and brilliant, blue-purple feathers make it among the most beautiful birds on the island! There are several other birds that are similarly widespread but are just as special and they too deserve our appreciation. These include the rose-ringed parakeet, pied kingfisher, grey francolin and pheasant-tailed jacana, as well as numerous species of pond herons, night herons, bitterns, snipes and many, many more. Many of these birds also have amazingly ornate patterns, even if these may not be obvious at first glance. For instance, both the striated heron and oriental darter possess a subtle yet surreal tapestry of silvery threads across their bodies that give them an exceptionally elegant aura; proof that subtlety and exceptional extravagance can coexist.
Perhaps the most fantastic fact that can be said about these birds is that they, along with all birds, are indeed the last, living dinosaurs! Many of us may have heard through Jurassic Park about the close connections between birds and dinosaurs like Velociraptor. However, the connections go much deeper, as all birds are quite literally the last real dinosaurs and are directly descended from small, carnivorous dinosaurs closely related to Velociraptor itself. This can be proven by a huge number of skeletal and behavioural similarities that birds and dinosaurs share in a combination not shared with any other animal group, and this can be observed in countless dinosaur fossils. These include the presence of feathers, a wishbone, similarly built hands and feet, similar sleeping and nesting positions, similarly structured eggs, identical development of the embryo and several more similarities. Our brilliant birds really are the last dinosaurs and this just makes the sheer diversity of Sri Lanka’s birds all the more special. Jaffna truly is a Jurassic Park on a planet that is still a real Jurassic World! However, it’s not only birds that inhabit Jaffna’s Jurassic Park, for there are a few more, equally impressive animals that deserve a mention.
One of these is the mugger crocodile; a large species of crocodile commonly found across much of Sri Lanka but also observed in the waters of Sarasalai. While the mugger crocodile is not the largest crocodile in Sri Lanka, it is still among the ten largest living reptiles and the two largest mugger crocodiles ever recorded were observed in Sri Lanka, with both measuring 5.6 metres in length! However, what really makes the mugger crocodile remarkable is its intelligence, for it represents among the first recorded instances of tool use in non-bird reptiles! Observations have found mugger crocodiles actually balance branches on their heads to trick birds. The birds swoop down to take the branches to use for their nests but, just when they get close enough, the crocodile strikes! This is truly incredible hunting behaviour and shows that crocodiles are capable of some immensely impressive feats of intelligence. The mugger crocodile could easily give the raptors of Jurassic Park a run for their money and that is certainly an achievement to be proud of! However, Jaffna’s Jurassic Park has one last surprise and it’s one that I would have never expected to see: the Sri Lankan golden jackal.
A year ago, I would have never imagined I’d see golden jackals in Jaffna. Thus, I was completely stunned to see an entire trio of jackals jogging through the wetlands near Kayts in November 2023! The jackals appeared to be a family, with one parent and two younger pups. To see just one golden jackal in this part of Jaffna was shocking but to see a trio was surreal to say the least! Even more amazingly, the family of jackals seemed perfectly at home and appeared to know exactly where they were going. I continued to observe them until they eventually disappeared into the dense grasses of the wetlands and it was an observation I’ll never forget. Interestingly, golden jackals aren’t closely related to other jackals at all but are actually far more closely related to wolves and coyotes! They are yet another incredible example of our island’s wondrous wildlife. To observe so many of these extraordinary animals so close to home really opened my eyes to how blessed our island is in terms of its biodiversity. The fact that flamingos, crocodiles, jackals and more can all be observed in such a heavily populated part of the country is truly miraculous and it is a blessing that we should never take for granted. The existence of such wildlife here only makes it more important that we make an effort to ensure they remain safe in our lands for countless generations to come. The islands of the Jurassic Park films may be a fantasy but we can still experience the wonder of a real Jurassic Park right here and right now, if only we’re willing to look.
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