At Milan Fashion Week, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection introduced a new sandal to its lineup. High fashion is known for its sleek, simple, and clean designs. However, Indian viewers quickly recognised something that was uncannily familiar. Despite its high price tag and premium branding, the sandal bore a striking resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal, a traditional leather shoe that has been worn for centuries throughout western India.
What made matters worse was Prada’s silence on the origins. The brand showcased the piece as a “leather sandal” without acknowledging any inspiration from Indian craft. And just like that, the internet lit up. Accusations of cultural appropriation began swirling within hours.
Not Your Average Flip-Flop: Meet the Kolhapuri
What’s extraordinary is that this centuries-old design, once worn by rural farmers and traders, is now influencing runways in Paris and Milan without ever losing its humble roots. They may appear modest, but Kolhapuri chappals carry the weight of history, representing craftsmanship, legacy, and cultural identity to a large number of Indians. Made by hand using vegetable-tanned leather in the city of Kolhapur, Maharashtra, each pair requires not only skill but also patience and tradition woven into every stitch. Entire families pass down the techniques, with some workshops operating for generations.
The sandals’ Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which publicly acknowledges their geographical origins and traditional production techniques, makes them more than merely rustic mementos. Despite all this, a pair can cost less than £10 (about $12) in India. Prada’s version, though not yet officially priced, is expected to retail at over €1,000 (around $1,100).
Critics Speak Out
As soon as photos from the show circulated online, backlash quickly emerged. The luxury brand came under fire from fashion journalists, cultural analysts, and even Indian politicians for not giving due recognition to the designer. Broader discussions were carried out over matters like cultural sensitivity in the fashion business sector, which was further spurred by the scandal, thereby increasing the critique comments.
Moreover, Shashi Tharoor, an Indian MP known for his advocacy of cultural representation, called out the practice, urging international labels to give proper credit when drawing from non-Western cultures. His words illustrated a growing demand for respect in global fashion while also reminding brands that cultural acknowledgement is not an option but essential. However, such an argument was not the only side to it, as many Indian designers concurred with his remarks, claiming that the international fashion industry has a history of appropriating Eastern customs without giving credit where credit is due, carrying the debate to a more complicated issue.
Where Does the Line Lie?
From quick fashion’s tribal designs to runways’ feathered headdresses, the fashion industry has long had to balance admiration with appropriation. The quiet that frequently follows borrowing is more problematic than the borrowing itself.
Rebranding a design that began with working-class artisans as a luxury item for elite markets, without acknowledging its origins, inevitably leaves a bitter aftertaste. It’s not just about money; it’s about recognition, fairness, and respect.
There’s a Better Way
Designers such as Stella McCartney and Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior) have engaged in extensive collaborations with Indian and foreign artisans, positioning their companies as global leaders. These partnerships benefit both sides: the craftspeople receive fair compensation and global recognition, while the company receives reputation and goodwill.
Acknowledging the source of inspiration fosters creativity rather than reducing it, making the experience a valuable teaching moment for Prada. In reality, working along with Indian artisans could result in very inventive design in addition to mending rifts, which can lead to an enhancement.
Prada’s sandal may look stylish on the runway, but its story feels unfinished. In a world where consumers are becoming more conscious of where their clothes—and ideas—come from, brands can’t afford to ignore the origins of their inspiration.
Behind every traditional craft lies a culture, a history, and real people. Fashion does not exist in isolation. And when heritage is turned into high fashion, credit should always follow.
