Giorgio Armani, which is one of the most influential names in global fashion, reached a very symbolic step at Milan Fashion Week when it debuted its first-ever menswear collection created without any involvement from its late founder, who passed away last year. Marking a tribute to its heritage, but also as a mark of its step into a new future underneath new creative leadership, the Fall/Winter 2026-27 showed these two prospects very clearly.
The collection, titled “Cangiante,” an Italian word meaning iridescent, is centred on tactile, rich fabrics and subtle shifts in colour that catch the light and evolve with perspective. Designers mixed velvet, chenille, brushed cashmere, felted wool and matte leather, creating layered looks that stayed true to Armani’s legacy of downplayed elegance while introducing softer tonal variations along with modern twists.
Leo Dell’Orco, a long-time collaborator of Armani for four decades, took charge of the menswear division and guided the collection’s designs during the first season without Giorgio Armani’s direct creative input, following the former founder’s passing in September of 2025. His vision worked to preserve the house’s signature aesthetic all the while allowing room for his own stylistic interpretation.
Seeing the show as a careful and beautiful balance between a traditional continuation and a brand-new evolution, industry observers were very pleased with this new season. Armani’s signature delicate tailoring and elegant silhouettes were still present in the clothing, but there were also indications of new vitality. Iridescent jewel tones, such as calming purples and rich lapis blues, gave traditional designs vitality and demonstrated the brand’s commitment to gradual change while staying true to its heritage.
The runway presentation drew attention not just for its fashion but for the energy surrounding it. As models walked the runway, the show was met with applause that highlighted the fashion world’s eagerness to witness how a storied brand transitions after the loss of its iconic founder.
Federico Giglio, CEO of Italian luxury retailer Giglio.com, praised the show’s “great attention to detail and magnificent selection of fabrics,” noting it was “beautiful” and demonstrated continuity with the house’s identity. This reaction showed a larger sentiment among observers that Armani’s core values, simplicity, quality and elegance, continue to anchor the brand’s vision even as it evolves.
At the close of the show, Dell’Orco appeared before the audience alongside his nephew Gianluca Dell’Orco, who also works within the menswear design studio. Their presence highlighted both personal and professional continuity within the maison.
During a time of reflection for the entire fashion world, this debut arrives just as other brands also find their paths forward amidst changing tastes and shifts in certain leadership. At this same Milan Fashion Week, Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren also showed their menswear collections, highlighting the vibrant as well as different directions within contemporary fashion.
For Armani, the show was more than just a runway event. It marked a turning point, honouring Giorgio Armani’s legacy while also showing that the brand is ready to move forward with confidence as well as fresh creativity.
The collection showed that Armani’s identity is still strong without its founder. It stayed true to the brand’s elegance, quality, and simplicity, even though small new ideas were added. And as the fashion world continues to look on and have its own progress as well, Armani holds up its identity strongly; even with the passing of the late Giorgio Armani, its new chapter respects its past but also moves confidently into the future.
Armani showed off that they are a signature brand, and though the brand recently mourned its founder, the founder’s efforts were certainly not in vain. Armani sent out a signal, one which says “they are not over, they have just begun”
