Australian surf breaks at risk

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Surfing, a sport that made its way to Australia over a century ago, has since become deeply embedded in the nation’s culture and economy. Once a niche activity, it has transformed into a significant commercial enterprise, with research from the Australian National University (ANU) estimating that surfing contributes over A$3 billion (US$2 billion, £1.5 billion) annually to the Australian economy.


However, this substantial economic contribution comes with a critical caveat. According to a recent study, surf breaks—specific areas where waves begin to collapse or plunge—are increasingly at risk, and more needs to be done to protect them. These natural formations, essential to the quality of surfing, are under threat due to climate change, coastal erosion, and competition for coastal development. Dr. Ana Manero, a specialist in water economics and governance at ANU’s Crawford School of Public Policy, emphasizes that these breaks should not be taken for granted.


“Unfortunately, because of climate change, coastal erosion, and competition for coastal spaces, the elements that make high-quality waves possible are often in danger,” Dr. Manero explained. She further noted that the lack of protection is not intentional, but rather a result of surf breaks falling into a “blind spot” for policymakers. This absence of focused legal protections has left some of Australia’s most valuable surf resources vulnerable.


The study, published in Marine Policy, highlights that global warming and declining water quality are two of surfers’ primary concerns. While certain surf breaks, such as those in New South Wales and Victoria’s Bells Beach, enjoy formal protection, the researchers argue that much more needs to be done to safeguard these natural assets. The focus should not only be on world-renowned breaks but also on local, lesser-known surf spots that are equally significant to everyday surfers.


Dr. Manero shared her concern that the global attention on a few key surf locations might overshadow the need to protect less prominent waves. “What I am more worried about are those waves that may not feature on a world-class map but provide immense value to people like you and me,” she stated. These local surf spots, while not attracting international recognition, are vital for the enjoyment and livelihood of many surfers across the country.


Evidence from previous ANU studies further reinforces the urgency of protecting surf breaks. One such study examined the disappearance of surfable waves near the town of Mundaka in northern Spain. Changes to the local sandbar following river dredging were identified as the cause. Similarly, in Perth, Western Australia, marina expansions led to the loss of three surf breaks in 2022. In response, the construction of an artificial reef has been proposed as a potential solution.


Australia may be able to find inspiration in international examples of surf break protection. Dr. Manero highlighted Peru’s “La Ley de Rompientes” (The Law of Surf Breaks), which serves to protect the country’s surf resources. New Zealand also offers a model of protection, with an existing act of parliament that safeguards national, regional, and local surf spots. The level of protection granted depends on the importance of each break to the local surfing community.


The Australian Sports Commission’s data, which was referenced in the ANU study, estimates that there are over 720,000 active adult surfers in the country. These surfers spend approximately A$3,700 annually on the sport, though this figure likely underestimates the true economic impact, as it does not account for spending by children, international tourists, or the professional surfing industry.


For many in the surfing community, the sport represents more than just recreation—it is a way of life. Matt Grainger, who has operated the Manly Surf School in Sydney for over 30 years, sees the growth of surfing as both steady and sustainable. “We try not to grow too fast with the surf school because we don’t want to overcrowd the ocean,” Grainger commented, emphasizing the balance between expansion and preservation.


The appeal of surfing lies not only in its economic benefits but in the connection to nature it fosters. Mika Flower, an instructor on Australia’s Pacific coast, described her lifelong passion for the sport and her desire to share it with others. “I have surfed my whole life. It’s super fun,” she said. Teaching people to surf allows her to share the joy and freedom that comes from being on the water, far from the confines of an office.
For those dedicated to chasing the perfect wave, surfing is more than a sport—it is a gift from nature, one that deserves protection.

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