USA (Commonwealth Union)_ In a bustling corner of Washington Square Park, where musicians perform and crowds pass through the greenery, the scent of sizzling dosa batter fills the air. Behind a small stainless steel cart labeled NY Dosas, a soft-spoken man named Thirukumar Kandasamy, known to regulars simply as “Thiru,” is quietly making history, one dosa at a time. Originally from Jaffna, a city in northern Sri Lanka, Thirukumar moved to New York over two decades ago. He left behind his life as a swimming coach in Jaffna and brought with him something more enduring: the culinary traditions passed down through generations of Tamil women in his family.
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Today, he is better known as the “Dosa Man” of New York. And his humble food cart has become a destination not just for South Asians, but for food lovers from around the world, including Canada and Japan, who line up daily to try his signature South Indian crepes. “I didn’t come here thinking I would be famous,” Thirukumar says modestly. “I just wanted to make a living doing something I love.” Thiru opened NY Dosas in 2001. What began as a small street cart has since gained international recognition, featuring in guidebooks across 42 countries. In 2007, his work earned him the coveted Vendy Award, New York’s highest honor for street food vendors. After being a finalist multiple times, his eventual win cemented his place in the city’s culinary history. And yet, his setup remains intentionally simple: just a pushcart, a hot griddle, and an ever-growing list of loyal fans.
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Each dosa is crafted from fermented rice and lentil batter, then filled with spiced potatoes, mixed vegetables, or creative fillings like the Pondicherry Special, which features crisp salad greens. There’s even a Samosa Dosa, a nod to both North and South Indian flavors. Every order comes with steaming sambar (a tangy lentil soup made with over 10 vegetables) and a vibrant coconut chutney. For many, it’s not just food. It’s a comforting ritual. Furthermore, Thirukumar is married to Rajini, whom he met through a love marriage, and the couple has a daughter named Sajini. His family’s support, he says, has kept him grounded through the ups and downs of building a food business in one of the world’s most competitive cities.
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Despite growing fame, Thirukumar has repeatedly turned down offers to open a restaurant. “I don’t want to lose my freedom or compromise my ideas to please investors,” he says. “This cart gives me everything I need: freedom, connection with people, and peace of mind.” The cart’s outside walls are covered in newspaper clippings, accolades, and images from various years, serving as silent witnesses to a journey marked by tenacity and profound cultural pride. While NY Dosas is only open from 11 am to 3 pm on weekdays, its reach is significantly greater. Thirukumar’s followers include Japanese tourists, expats from Canada, and California residents who visit anytime they are in town. His Instagram account, where he publishes updates and personal observations, has become a center for admirers to follow his opening hours and engage with his tale.
Many customers admit they can make dosa at home but say there’s something different, almost magical, about Thiru’s food. Perhaps it’s the decades of experience or the unmistakable warmth with which he serves each plate. One longtime customer puts it simply: “You don’t just come here to eat. You come here to feel something.” Thirukumar’s journey from war-torn Jaffna to the heart of New York’s food scene is not just about cooking; it’s about community. He has created a space where flavors, stories, and cultures meet. “I was told many times that it wouldn’t work out,” he recalls. “But I didn’t give up. I just kept trying.” Today, the Dosa Man stands as a reminder that even in the busiest of cities, simple food made with passion can leave a lasting legacy
