Jaffna, Sri Lanka (Commonwealth Union)_In a list compiled by CNN Travel, one of the barometers for global travel destinations, Jaffna, the northern capital of Sri Lanka makes it to the List of Most Underrated Places in Asia. The list comprises eighteen destinations in Asia voted by CNN’s network of colleagues and contributors with the criteria including, ‘travellers who are fortunate to have time to dig a little deeper’, plus less crowded places where hidden treasures can be discovered.
In its decision to place Jaffna among the eighteen most underrated places in Asia, CNN Travel mentioned that Sri Lanka’s most popular places to visit are the tropically beautiful southern coast or the rolling hills of the verdant hill country, both easily accessible from the commercial capital of Colombo. However, the north of the country, primarily due to distance, can be time consuming by road or even rail and therefore, hosts lesser of the larger tourist numbers due to Sri Lanka being a preferred destination for shorter vacations.
Jaffna is the northern capital of Sri Lanka and was the epicenter of a three decade war which not just saw loss to life and limb, but also massive brain drain. Despite the ghastly leftovers of that chapter of history, Jaffna effortlessly blends its deep-rooted Tamil cultural mores, conventions and traditions with vestiges of Portuguese, Dutch and British colonization.
The resulting architecture is spectacular. Ruins of old churches, Kruys Church or Kruys Kerk constructed in 1706 by the Dutch for example, the Jaffna Fort built by the Portuguese in 1618 and improved upon by the Dutch in 1625 and one of the biggest libraries in Asia, the Jaffna Library built by the British in 1933, razed to the ground during the civil war which destroyed over a million books and manuscripts which was rebuilt in 2001 – are just a few of the many to be on the to-do list.
Add the sprawling Nallur Kandaswamy Hindu Temple, which illustrates the unity upon which the races of the country lived in ancient times. Founded in 948 AD, the temple was developed in the 13th century by a Sinhalese minister on the instructions of the King of Kotte, a kingdom in the south. Nallur became the capital and seat of the kings of Jaffna and is today, visited by hundreds daily and festivals hosting thousands with devotees and visitors alike getting caught up in the pageantry of the daily poojas, which can be quite intoxicating.
Just walking about Jaffna is a mission of discovery. Whether it’s in the amazingly beautiful architecture of the homes and official buildings, all vignettes of the glories of Jaffna past or infinite carpets of green stretching as far as the eye can see with grazing cattle in their own laidback world.
The lesser known surrounding islands that embellish the Jaffna peninsula is yet another find. The Neduntivu fishing island with its rich archeological history from the Chola dynasty to colonization to the island of Kayts led to by a scenic causeway which has a picturesque panorama of migratory flamingoes in season wait to be uncovered.
And one cannot miss Jaffna cuisine, a feature to be savoured. Whether it’s the Jaffna Kool (seafood soup), Eral (prawn curry from the Jaffna lagoon), Kanavai (cuttle fish) or Poondu Kuzhambu (garlic curry) accompanying a melt in the mouth ghee rice, Jaffna has an entire platter of unique flavours that are not replicated anywhere else in Sri Lanka. But that’s not all – the Jaffna crab curry is another experience that remains hidden in the veil of time. Wash it all down with some palmyrah toddy and a quick sweet treat at Rio Ice Cream with a walk down to Casuarina Beach to hobnob with the locals for that complete vacation.
Underrated it may be, but Jaffna is an adventure waiting to be discovered it is, making the list with the other seventeen destinations: Ipoh, Malaysia; Isaan, Thailand; Leshan, China; Skardu, Pakistan; Nikko, Japan; Dalat, Vietnam; Davao, Philippines; Meghalaya, India; Pulau Ubin, Singapore; Samosir Island, Indonesia; Pakse, Laos; Bangladesh; Tengchong, China; Gogunsan Islands, South Korea; Lan Ha Bay, Vietnam; Kenting, Taiwan; and Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia.
