A Century in the Making—Will This Iconic Indian Restaurant Be Killed Off by Its Landlord?

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UK (Commonwealth Union)_ Veeraswamy, the iconic Indian restaurant located in the heart of London’s Regent Street, is facing the threat of closure after nearly a century of culinary excellence. Just months away from celebrating its 100th anniversary, the Michelin-starred establishment is entangled in a lease renewal dispute that may close down one of Britain’s oldest and most celebrated Indian dining institutions. Founded in 1926 by Edward Palmer, an Anglo-Indian former army officer, and a Mughal princess, Veeraswamy quickly gained fame for its distinctive menu, which showcases a diverse array of Indian cuisines from Kashmir, Punjab, Lucknow, and Goa. The restaurant has held a prominent position at Victory House for nearly 99 years, but now its future hangs in the balance as a lease stand-off with its landlord, the Crown Estate, intensifies.

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The Crown Estate, which manages a portfolio of property owned by the British monarch, has declined to extend Veeraswamy’s lease beyond June 24. The estate intends to undertake a comprehensive refurbishment of the building, including transforming the space into modern office facilities and improving accessibility at the entrance. This move has prompted a legal challenge from MW Eat, the restaurant group that has operated Veeraswamy since the 1990s. “Veeraswamy is not just an institution; it is a living, breathing part of London’s gastronomic heritage,” said Ranjit Mathrani, director of MW Eat. “We have hosted dignitaries, royals, and iconic personalities over the years. It is deeply disappointing that the Crown Estate is unwilling to consider alternatives that preserve this legacy.”

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Among the notable guests who have dined at Veeraswamy over the decades are Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Anne, former UK Prime Minister Winston Churchill, Indian Prime Ministers Jawaharlal Nehru and Indira Gandhi, actors Charlie Chaplin and Marlon Brando, and King Abdullah of Jordan. The restaurant, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2016, is known for signature dishes such as Mulligatawny Soup, Princess Noorani Lamb Chops, Patiala Shahi Raan Encroute, and Travencore Prawn Curry. MW Eat has applied to the court to seek a lease renewal under its protected tenancy rights. A decision is expected later in 2026. Although the restaurant is not at risk of immediate closure, the looming expiration date has raised concerns over whether the historic location can be preserved.

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In court filings, Mathrani expressed his disappointment over the Crown Estate’s firm stance. “I am sorry to say that I feel that the representatives have had their minds closed in respect of the retention of Veeraswamy in their various discussions with me,” he stated. He also noted that MW Eat has explored multiple compromise solutions that would allow the restaurant to coexist with the refurbishment plans but to no avail. The Crown Estate, however, maintains that its decision is driven by the need to upgrade the listed building. In a statement, a spokesperson said: “The Crown Estate has a duty to generate value for the nation while acting as responsible stewards for this historic part of London. We appreciate this is upsetting for Veeraswamy and have offered to help find them new premises elsewhere within our portfolio.”

The potential closure of Veeraswamy has ignited a broader conversation about the balance between heritage and modernization in London’s ever-evolving urban landscape. Known not only for its food but also for its legacy, the restaurant is one of the very few establishments in the world with such a long-standing cultural and historical footprint. Edward Palmer, whose culinary inspiration came from his great-grandmother, Mughal Princess Faisan Nissa Begum, aimed to introduce British society to the authentic flavors of India. The result was a menu that brought India’s regional richness to London’s dining scene long before Indian cuisine became mainstream in the UK.

Over the years, MW Eat, run by Mathrani and his sisters Namita and Camellia Panjabi, has continued to uphold the founders’ vision while adapting to contemporary tastes. The group also operates other successful Indian restaurants across London, including Amaya and Chutney Mary. “We have nurtured this place, nourished it, and evolved it with the times,” said Mathrani. “It would be a tragedy to see a restaurant with such an unparalleled legacy forced out of its home after nearly a century.” As legal proceedings continue, loyal patrons and history enthusiasts alike hope that a solution can be found to preserve Veeraswamy’s rightful place on Regent Street. The outcome may well determine whether one of London’s most iconic culinary landmarks reaches its centennial milestone or closes its doors just before 100 years.

 

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