As West Bengal prepares for its largest annual celebration, Durga Puja, the state faces a looming crisis: a potential shortage of hilsa, the highly cherished fish integral to the festival’s culinary traditions. This predicament is attributed to recent actions taken by Bangladesh, the world’s leading producer of hilsa (Tenualosa ilisha), to enforce a strict ban on the fish’s export. In a bid to ensure that hilsa remains accessible to consumers within Bangladesh, the new government in Dhaka has intensified its crackdown on the transportation of hilsa to neighboring India. According to Farida Akhter, adviser to the Bangladesh Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, the renewed effort is part of a broader strategy to prevent the outflow of this prized commodity. “A lot of fish is [still] going from Bangladesh to India [despite the ban]. This time we will not allow the hilsa to cross the border,” Akhter informed the BBC.
This stringent enforcement marks a significant departure from the previous administration’s approach. Under the leadership of former Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, Bangladesh frequently lifted the ban during the Durga Puja festival as a goodwill gesture, allowing a special quota of hilsa to be exported to India. This practice was a cornerstone of Hasina’s “hilsa diplomacy,” which aimed to strengthen bilateral relations between the two countries.
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Sheikh Hasina’s tenure was marked by several notable gestures of goodwill involving hilsa. For instance, she sent consignments of hilsa to West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee on multiple occasions. Additionally, in 2017, Hasina gifted 30 kilograms of hilsa to then-Indian President Pranab Mukherjee as part of efforts to address a protracted water dispute.
However, following Hasina’s dramatic removal from office on August 5 after a series of student-led protests and subsequent nationwide unrest, her attempts to seek asylum in the UK, US, and UAE have faced significant hurdles. Her ongoing presence in India has complicated Delhi’s attempts to foster a strong relationship with the interim government in Dhaka. For India, maintaining a positive relationship with Bangladesh is crucial due to its strategic importance, particularly for border security in the northeastern states.
Despite the importance of diplomatic gestures, Akhter emphasized that the new interim government must prioritize the needs of its citizens. “We will have goodwill gestures in all other ways. They are our friends. But we should not do anything by depriving our people. The question of goodwill is separate from this,” she said.
Bangladesh’s decision to halt hilsa exports has had immediate economic repercussions. Hilsa is a significant component of Bangladesh’s economy, contributing approximately 12% to its total fish production and around 1% to its GDP. The country harvests up to 600,000 tons of hilsa annually, primarily from the Bay of Bengal. Despite the export ban, local media reports indicate that hilsa prices in Bangladesh have surged. A 1.5 kg hilsa now sells for around 1,800 takas (approximately $15 or £11.50), compared to 1,600 takas for a 1.2 kg fish, and 1,500 takas per kg. These prices represent an increase of 150-200 taka from the previous year.
The price escalation is attributed to a decline in catch volumes, exacerbated by adverse weather conditions that have hindered fishing efforts. Hossain Miah, a local fisherman, reported that rough seas thwarted attempts to fish in recent months, further stressing the supply chain.
Hilsa is revered in Bengali culture and celebrated for its culinary versatility and delicate flavor. Its preparation ranges from steaming with mustard paste to frying with a light coating of spices. Bengali-American food historian and author Chitrita Banerji has extolled the fish’s virtues, describing it as “the darling of the waters” and “a prince among fish.” Its tender, albeit bony, flesh and exquisite flavor contribute to its esteemed place in Bengali cuisine.
The impending shortage of hilsa during Durga Puja could significantly impact traditional festivities and frustrate many who consider the fish an essential part of their cultural and celebratory practices. The situation underscores the complex interplay between regional diplomacy, economic interests, and cultural heritage, highlighting the challenges faced by both nations in navigating these multifaceted issues.
