Healthcare (Commonwealth Union) – A recent in-depth review by researchers at the University of Birmingham highlights a worrying shortage of testing on leave-on products like sunscreens, moisturizers, hand sanitizers, deodorants, and lipsticks, which may contain ingredients with potential environmental and health risks. The review, titled “Beyond microbeads: Investigating the impact of cosmetics on microplastic pollution and addressing unresolved questions,” was published in the Journal of Hazardous Materials.
Dr. Anna Kukkola from the University of Birmingham indicated that their systematic review thoroughly assessed the existing knowledge about microplastics in cosmetic and personal care products. The findings show a major gap in research and global regulations, which mostly focus on rinse-off products.
She further pointed out that the “leave-on” cosmetics’ role in contributing to microplastic pollution is a crucial but largely overlooked issue. Dr. Kukkola then indicated that these microplastic particles often end up in wastewater treatment plants or landfills, potentially making their way into aquatic ecosystems. Furthermore, despite the likely significant skin contact with microplastics from such products, there’s a surprising scarcity of research on their health effects, with no studies on microplastic exposure identified in this review.
The study revealed that, out of 2,381 products analyzed, only two were leave-on products. One possible explanation for this gap is the difficulty in extracting microplastics from complex, oil-based formulations. Another reason may be the lack of public concern, partly due to bans on microplastics in rinse-off products, which may give the impression that regulatory bodies have adequately addressed the issue.
Dr. Kukkola further pointed out that in general, the amount and nature of microplastics in cosmetic and personal care products outside the rinse-off category—such as facial scrubs and toothpastes—remain largely unknown. This could be due to the greater challenge of testing leave-on formulas for these harmful particles compared to rinse-off products. She also pointed out that alternatively, the lack of research into leave-on products might stem from a public perception, fueled by industry messaging, that the microplastic issue in these products has been resolved, which is far from accurate. The only regulatory measure addressing leave-on cosmetics is the new European Union microplastic ban, which will be implemented in stages: starting in 2027 for rinse-off cosmetics, 2029 for leave-on products, and not until 2035 for lip, nail, and makeup products. Meanwhile, other regulations focus solely on rinse-off products.
“From a health perspective the reality is that there is very little knowledge about what happens to these products after they are applied to the skin. There are several possible routes through which these ingredients can be taken up by our bodies, depending on mode of application of the product. Lip balms can be swallowed for example, while it is possible that smaller sized plastic particles could penetrate through the skin and into the body, via hair follicles and sweat ducts (called the transappendageal route). Given how much of these formulas our bodies can and do absorb, it is concerning that little to no research has taken place to investigate the associated health effects, something that needs to be rectified.”
The paper argues that the term “microbead,” which technically refers to microplastics in “rinse-off” products, has been incorrectly used as a blanket term for all microplastics in cosmetics and personal care products in research related to product testing. This misuse, the paper claims, has led to gaps in global microplastic regulations, which have disproportionately focused on rinse-off products. As a result, a significant source of microplastic pollution from leave-on products may be unintentionally overlooked in international legislation.
“This research effectively demonstrates that leave-on products are chronically understudied, leading to a major knowledge gap, and highlights the importance of developing new analytical methodologies to aid future regulatory enforcement efforts,” added Dr Kukkola.
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